Tuesday, 20 October 2009

McLaren Vale in review - by The Sun-Herald

Less than an hour from Adelaide lies a smorgasbord of wine, food, art and nature, writes Caroline Gladstone.

Location

Situated 39 kilometres or a 45-minute drive south of Adelaide, McLaren Vale is one of the most accessible wine regions in the country. The best way to get there is by car, taking the Main South Road from Adelaide. There's also a daily bus service to McLaren Vale town with Premier Stateliner Coaches.

What to expect
McLaren Vale is both a town (population 5070) and a wine region, located on the Fleurieu Peninsula. The locals call it a boutique village and while the town is small, it is jam-packed with restaurants, cafes, boutiques and galleries. Its long main street, which runs for eight kilometres to the village of Willunga, is dotted with 19th-century ironstone buildings, while many rustic wineries are heritage listed.

As one of Australia's oldest wine regions, the rolling hills of McLaren Vale are covered in vineyards, many of which have sweeping views over St Vincent's Gulf and the magnificent Mount Lofty Ranges. Named after David McLaren, the colonial manager of the South Australian Company, the region's first vines were planted in 1838 by Englishman John Reynell. Farming and viticulture have dominated McLaren Vale since the 1840s and today's growers produce almonds, olives, quinces, pears and a bounty of fruit and vegetables. The Seaview winery was established in 1850, then in 1873, Thomas Hardy, patriarch of the renowned winemaking dynasty, bought Tintara winery, which his descendants still run.

The region's fantastic coastal location is celebrated each June at the two-day Sea and Vines Festival, where great seafood and wines are on the menu at 20 wineries.


Where to eat

McLaren Vale is a smorgasbord for foodies, with 40 cafes and restaurants, many set among the vines. Restaurateurs shop at farmers' markets and buy fish straight from the trawlers.

Salopian Inn is housed in an 1851 stone and slate cottage. This landmark restaurant serves Mediterranean fare in a relaxed country setting. A Salopian, by the way, is a resident of Shropshire. See salopianinn.com.au.

At Russell's Pizza restaurant, you'll eat fantastic pizzas and be warmed in winter by two huge wood-fired ovens (indoors and in the outside courtyard) in this ramshackle 19th-century blacksmith's cottage. Open weekends only. 13 High Street, Willunga. Phone (08) 8556 2571.

The Star of Greece sits pretty on a cliff above Port Willunga beach. The former 1950s kiosk has a stunning view – and seafood to match. Snaffle the fried whitebait and Kangaroo Island haloumi if it's on. 1 The Esplanade, Port Willunga. Phone (08) 8557 7420.

D'Arry's on the Verandah combines views across the vines to the sea and is blissful in summer. This award-winning restaurant is part of d'Arenberg winery. The coq au vin with breaded dumplings is the specialty. See darrysverandah.com.au.

For gourmet goods, shop on Main Road at Blessed Cheese, The Chocolate Box, The Almond Train and the Tin Shed.

Wineries

Where do you start when there are 110 wineries and 70 cellar doors to explore? Take your pick from small family wineries, big names like Hardys Tintara and Rosemount Estate and some emerging legends. These are our picks ...

Chapel Hill Winery This is one of the quaintest cellar doors in the region, housed in an 1865 ironstone chapel. Chapel Hill's early claim to fame was its reds, especially the award-winning The Vicar Shiraz. Nowadays, the unwooded chardonnay and the pinot grigio and bush vine grenache are big sellers.

Samuel's Gorge The secret is out on this one-man winery operated by Justin McNamee, formerly of Tatachilla. Taste some wonderful shiraz, grenache and tempranillo at the cellar door, which was a 19th-century blacksmith's shop, near the stunning Onkaparinga Gorge.

Coriole Vineyards
It's hard to beat the hilltop setting of Coriole, with its sweeping views of vines and ocean. The flagship is the shiraz, featured in James Halliday's Classic Wines of Australia, but lately, the Italian varietals, including sangiovese, have been making a name. Stop by for olive tastings and a casual lunch under the vine-covered pergola.

Mollydooker Winery A mollydooker is slang for a left-hander and the husband and wife winemaking team of Sparky and Sarah Marquis are just that. Their four-hour winery tour, complete with tastings and lunch, is a must.

Markets

The Willunga Farmers' Market, held on Saturdays from 8am-12.30pm, is a great morning out. Winemakers sell their bottles from the car boot, 70 produce stalls offer everything from cheese to bread and herbs, while chefs demonstrate their skills. See willungafarmersmarket.com.

Other markets include Willunga Quarry Market (second Saturday of the month); Meadows Country Market (second Sunday) and Strathalbyn Country Markets (first Sunday).

Galleries

Red Poles combines art exhibitions with a dash of cabaret and a glass of cabernet. It's a gallery cum cafe/wine bar that stages wonderful performances from jazz to flamenco.

The Singing Gallery is a folk and blues music venue that also runs a Sunday market featuring local arts and crafts. See singinggallery.com.au.

Off the Slate Gallery is a co-operative in Willunga where 22 artists exhibit their works, ranging from pastels to sculpture, pottery and jewellery. See offtheslategallery.com.

Natural attractions

Bushwalkers and climbers have several parks to explore; swimmers and surfers have six beaches to choose from. Onkaparinga River National Park, north of McLaren Vale town, has 50-metre cliffs, gorges dotted with rock pools and a river perfect for kayaking and canoeing. Aldinga Scrub, 12 kilometres south of McLaren Vale near Aldinga Beach, is 300 hectares of amazing sand dunes, red-gum forests and heathland, while Aldinga Beach is well loved by locals, who are permitted to drive their cars along the long, sandy strip.

Secrets

Bella Cosa This newcomer is a microcosm of McLaren Vale under one roof – a winery, cafe, gallery and sculpture garden. An artist-in-residence assists budding sculptors, while painting classes are also on offer. See bellacosa.com.au.

Alternatively, take a walk or ride a bike along the eight-kilometre Shiraz Trail – the old railway line from McLaren Vale to Willunga – visiting wineries along the way. Onya Bike Tours has four-hour picnic and biking packages ($38) and bike rentals.

Maslin Beach wears the proud moniker of Australia's first nudist beach, courtesy of a proclamation from former South Australian premier Don Dunstan in 1975. The three-kilometre beach has spectacular cliffs, with "clad" and "unclad" sections.

Just down the road

Strathalbyn, a 30-minute drive south-east of McLaren Vale, is a 19th-century town brimming with 30 historic buildings and antique and curio shops to delight everyone from the casual browser to the avid collector. Goolwa, less than an hour down the road, is also worth a visit as it was the first town in Australia to be classified as a "Cittaslow" town – or slow food town.

Goolwa boasts a range of galleries, wineries and the Steam Exchange Brewery. It is also the gateway to Coorong National Park, one of the state's best eco-experience locations.

More information

Source: The Sun-Herald

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Saturday, 5 September 2009

Tour Down Under

Champion cyclist Lance Armstrong has revealed that he will launch his new Radio Shack team at the Tour Down Under next January.

Armstrong made his comeback to professional cycling at this year's Tour in South Australia before going on to ride the European road season, where he finished third in the Tour de France.

News that the seven-time Tour de France winner was returning to South Australia was welcomed by South Australian Premier Mike Rann.

"Getting Lance Armstrong to Adelaide makes economic sense," he said.

"It also means all around the world, people are getting fantastic vision of some tourism icons like the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, the Adelaide Hills, Fleurieu Peninsula, the city itself, and of course for the first time next year, the Clare Valley."

The SA Government has confirmed it will pay Armstrong for appearing.

This year's race visit attracted huge crowds and media exposure for the race.

Mr Rann says paying the Tour de France winner is worth it, but he will not divulge the sum involved.

"We don't discuss that because every single cyclist that comes gets fees and things and you don't want to get into some kind of a bidding war," he said.

"It's a huge bang-for-buck and I guess, as I'm saying, hundreds of millions of people watching fantastic scenes of South Australia."

Tour Down Under race director Mike Turtur says the new team Radio Shack will be one to beat in next year's event.

Turtur says it will include a number of Armstrong's current Astana team-mates and other high-profile riders.

"I think he'll take the greater majority from Astana," he said.

"It's already been reported that several riders are going with him. George Hincapie is leaving Columbia and we suspect that he's going to Radio Shack, so he's going to have a very strong team built around being ready for the Tour de France."

Oil and gas producer Santos has signed to be naming rights sponsor until 2013, but says its support had not hinged on confirmation that Armstrong would return to Adelaide.

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Pink

SHE played in Adelaide for the last time this week as part of her months-long Aussie tour, but Pink managed a bit of a fling with a special local before she left.

The rocker wrote of her new love on online networking site Twitter this week, warning husband Carey Hart that he had some serious competition.

"I am in love. then he grabbed me and climbed me and ate my hat," she wrote.

"I miss him and I am afraid I always will. Must call Carey and confess."

But things are not quite as pervy as they sound.

"Met a kangaroo named Dusty today at Woodstock Vineyards in McLaren Vale," she added.

"We made out. I swear he licked my face after I fed him a bottle."

Pink made her visit to the winery in style, travelling in a brand new Jaguar from Solitaire Motors, after having lunch earlier in the day at Maxwell Wines.

Woodstock owner Scott Collett said the singer, who visited the winery with her mum, was "really bubbly and down-to-earth".

Pink isn't the first A-lister to visit the winery. ZZ Top, the Hilltop Hoods, Neil Young, and Rod Stewart's entourage have also dropped by.

Friday, 12 June 2009

A walk through McLaren Vale

McLaren Vale might not be known for delicate varieties like albarino or viognier but it's certainly giving them its best shot, and more besides.

Australian winemaker Mike Brown, from Gemtree in McLaren Vale, staged a press tasting in Dublin recently, to show the diversity of wines now being produced by himself and his neighbours in this famous region.


McLaren Vale can be a warm dry place, where water shortage is a real problem, but there are hill sites where cooler wine styles can be produced. Also, the region is not far from the sea and many vineyards benefit from moderating ocean breezes. To prove this point, Brown offered a crisp white made from albarino, an aromatic Spanish grape not noted for prospering in very hot situations.

“A bit experimental,” he explained, the grapes having been head grafted onto some poorly performing cabernet vines, but not bad. Not perhaps as robustly aromatic as a Spanish version but tasty, with a firm citrus kick. According to Brown, the wine is one of a range of new styles that we can expect from McLaren Vale over the next few years.

“We are known for shiraz and that won’t really change,” he said, “but we have a variety of microclimates and we can do a lot of different things, which is why we have started growing things like sangiovese and tempranillo and experimenting more with southern French varieties, including whites.”

Viognier is the most prized white variety of the French Rhone Valley but McLaren Vale’s D’Arenberg estate (Taserra) can give those pricey Condrieu wines a run for their money. Its Hermit Crab Viognier 2007 is a €15 bottling which has lush aromas of yellow flowers and fruit which carry onto the palate, where the ripe tropical fruit is nicely balanced by a fresh acidity. Another surprise was Mitolo Jester Sangiovese Rose 2008 (Liberty); zesty raspberry and strawberry fruit gave it some Italian style but at just over €17 it may just find the market for this category a little competitive. Well made stuff, though.

Despite the experiments, when it comes to McLaren, it’s hard to turn away from the rich, classic reds which are a byword for the region. However, tasting through the line of bottles, we quickly became aware that cooler, more elegant styles sit happily beside the brawnier shiraz bottlings. One of these was Wirra Wirra Church Block 2006 (Straffan), which had a noticeable green streak beneath its nicely integrated plum and blackcurrant fruits. A blend of cabernet with shiraz and merlot, this is very good value at €20.

A special treat is Geoff Merrill Reserve Shiraz 2002 (Comans) which is drinking beautifully now, with vanilla coated plummy aromas and a spicy, berry flavoured palate. Despite the spice, there’s good balancing acidity and though the wine is at peak now, it will hold for several years. Also with a bit of hold-ability is Gemtree Obsidian Shiraz 2005, with its lovely leathery elements appearing on nose and palate.

Both the Merrill and Gemtree shiraz are over €30 but if you want a simpler, good value bottling for a weekend dinner, you could do a lot worse than Hardys Oomoo Shiraz 2006; this clean, juicy wine, with its plum and berry flavours, would be perfect with Sunday roast or meat pies.

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Wine: The Vale of plenty

The warm spicy wines of Austrailia's McLaren Vale are ideal with Mediterranean-style food

The important thing to fix in your mind about the wines from Australia’s McLaren Vale is their reputation for delivering the middle palate.

That’s not as wine geeky as it may sound; mid-palate is, as the terms suggests, that highly anticipated moment, after the initial taste sensation, when the wine hits the spot, or not. It comes after about 10 seconds, when a decent wine should be starting to show its wares.

If your lips spell satisfaction, the mid-palate is happy. That’s the way wine should be, you say. But remember the ones that are, as they say, “hollow,” when you are left wandering for a hit that doesn’t really land, or is thin, and you swallow in disappointment.

You may not always remember whether a wine had a long finish — although that is the sweetest thing of all — but you rarely forget that it made an impression at mid-palate. So, there is a certain reliability about McLaren Vale wines. Lying in South Australia, it is similar to the Mediterranean, a coast-hugging amphitheatre, producing warm and spicy wines, in the mode of the south of France, Italy and Spain.

Since the early days of winemaking in Oz, McLaren Vale wines have been used to beef up more dilute offerings, so the juice may feature in bottles with more generic labels such as South Australia.

When wine-making started down here in the 19th century, theMcLaren Vale wines had a reputation for being ferruginous or iron-rich, and it is said that doctors in England presecribed them as a tonic.

McLaren is a land of other rich flavours; it groans with almonds, and olive trees and is the sort of place where you can buy a cheese hamper and picnic your wayaround the local wineries, tasting as you go. It’s also the home of dukkah, a nut-and-spice mix into which you dunk olive-oil-dipped crusty bread and sit back and smack your lips. Its food sits perfectly with its wines, which are predominantly red.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz are tops here, the sunny clime assuring a lush, ripe style of dark berry fruit. You may detect some luscious dark chocolate on the palate, although the nearby Barossa Valley is better known for that while McLaren Vale majors heavily on dark berry fruit flavours.

Other red grapes, such as Grenache and Mourvedre, also feature, and Grenache is doing some wonderful things here.The GSM you see on some Australian labels translates as Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, the mainstay of the red wines of southern France such as Côtes du Rhone.

There are whites, including Viognier and Chardonnay. Many of its wines, like D'Arenbeg, have been household fixtures for years. It is the origin of Rosemount and Hardys, which may also appear as the more generic South East Australia brand.

These are wines to savour with a barbecued steak in the evening — and perhaps best avoided outdoors in the midday sun because of their high alcohol content.

Pick up the Aussie wines’ mintiness with new season lamb or simply say G’day to a glass of McLaren Vale with any Medstyle cooking.


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Wednesday, 3 June 2009

South Australia's Oldest Vineyard May Be Bulldozed for Housing

Constellation sells McLaren Vale's Stony Hill, first planted in 1838; says it's too expensive to maintain.

South Australia's oldest commercial vineyard site has been sold to developers to be subdivided into a housing development. The Stony Hill vineyard at Old Reynella in McLaren Vale was first planted to Cabernet Sauvignon in 1838 by the district's first settler, John Reynell. The announcement of the plan to develop the historic site has angered locals and wine lovers across the country.

"We'd like to see it preserved as vineyards, as a tribute to our early history," said Kris Hanna, the local parliament member and chairman of the Reynell Business and Tourism Association. McLaren Vale is under increasing pressure from the sprawling southern suburbs of Adelaide, despite assurances from politicians that vineyard sites will not be rezoned to residential land.

Nonetheless, the vineyard was sold by Constellation Wines to Pioneer Homes, which has lodged a council application for 41 high-density homes to be built on the site.

Constellation Wines Australia public relations manager Sheralee Davies said that the vineyard, just 0.8 acres in size, was identified a number of years ago as unviable. "Water access is a challenge and the small vineyard has become increasingly expensive to maintain," she said. The site is currently planted to 19- and 25-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon vines, which would be removed under Pioneer Homes' development plan.

Davies explained that the company is focusing its resources on its Hardy's Old Reynella headquarters and its public areas, located directly opposite the Stony Hill vineyard. "We have had to make some tough calls across the board and this is one of them," she said.

While acknowledging that the site has historical significance as the original location of John Reynell's vineyard, she said, "We're trying to run a business here and we need to be responsible in the way that we maintain it."

Some in the industry have suggested that the vineyard was the original source of the Reynella clone of Cabernet Sauvignon, which has since been planted across Australia. It's more likely that the clone originated from the nearby Reynella vineyard, planted by Reynell shortly after Stony Hill. Constellation has declared that it plans to continue to maintain the Reynella vineyard


Tyson Stelzer

Cheers to Sea and Vines festival at McLaren Vale

AS the economic recession reaches our home soil, the BankSA Sea and Vines festival will help to buck the trend by celebrating local wine and produce from McLaren Vale.
Now an Adelaide institution, the annual event promotes wine, seafood and other local produce and encourages people to spend in their own backyard.

This long-weekend, June 7-8, the festival will celebrate 17 years by hosting cellar door tastings, lunches, live music and entertainment.

More than 25,000 people are expected to flood McLaren Vale armed with glasses and ready to drink up one of Australia's most renowned wine regions.

This year 23 wineries will offer special lunches from their restaurants or team up with local caterers and set up marquees on their properties to welcome visitors to match their wines to delicious seafood delights.

Sea and Vines committee member Luke Tyler says the event is a good excuse for people to check out South Australia's fine produce.

"For a lot of people it is hard to find the time to come out to the wineries and the BankSA Sea and Vines festival is a good opportunity to get round to few different places and enjoy a really fun and laid-back atmosphere," Mr Tyler said.

"There is such a huge array of really good food and a massive variety from wood fired pizzas to lobster medallions."

Originally starting as an oyster festival, the event has evolved to promote wines, world class restaurants and olive oil.

Mr Tyler said BankSA's support was the glue that held the event together.

"BankSA makes a significant financial contribution and it is the reason the event goes ahead.

"It's not a money making exercise – and they have been great in allowing the region to showcase its finest produce."

This year BankSA customers can pick up a complimentary tasting glass during the festival from Chalk Hill Wines, d'Arenberg, Maxwell Wines, Rosemount, Scarpantoni Estate, Wirra Wirra Vineyards and the Bocce Club.

All customers need to do is flash their ATM card at the cellar door for their free souvenir.

Those who have landed the role of designated driver can stop by the McLaren Vale Visitor Information Centre, to receive a wristband, which will allow them to receive free discounts and offers such as coffees and entrees at selected wineries.
There are a number of ticketed events such as cooking classes at Chapel Hill Winery with The Retreat executive chef Peter Hogg, who will demonstrate dishes made with sensationally fresh seafood matched with wines from the award winning winemaker, Michael Fragos.

D'Arenberg winery will feature food from d'Arry's Verandah Restaurant and spoil visitors with the talents of Adam Page and The Mood Brewers on the Monday.

The degustation menu is set to tantalise the tastebuds of every wine connoisseur, featuring freshly shucked Streaky Bay Oysters accompanied by a finger lime dressing crab tartlet with grapefruit and pomelo salad.

Visitors who head to The Bocce Club will have the chance to taste the wines of six boutique wineries who have joined forces for the weekend to share their produce with food by Deep Blue Café.

Red Poles will host Leconfield Wines and they are inviting visitors to book for a "long brekky," on a warm verandah with vines and bubbles.

Afternoon treats include seared scallop skewers on a sesame and lime noodle salad or locally made gourmet sausage in an organic crusty roll with Spanish onion jam and local rocket.

* Extract from a full BankSA page in Stock Journal, May 21 issue.

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